Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Grand Canyon

Up to this time on our "Sabbatical," we have been hiking an average of 6 miles every day for almost two weeks, building our strength and endurance up for our big goal-the Grand Canyon hike, which we knew would be the longest and most difficult. This challenge captured all four kid's minds and imaginations so that even when they were foot sore and weary, they would be encouraged by a reminder that we were "getting our hiking legs in shape" for the North Rim.

The atmosphere buzzed with excitement Wed. morning as we packed up just the tent and what little we would need for our rustic campsite in Grand Canyon National Park, leaving our pop-up at Zion for 2 days. On our 2 hour drive to the north rim, we took in both Cedar Breaks National Monument (a nice lunch break) and Pipe Springs National Monument (a natural spring in the middle of the desert, first used by the Piout Native Americans, then taken over in the early 1800s by Mormon settlers - the place has an interesting history and still bubbles out hundreds of gallons of water per minute.) Our kids finished the "ranger programs" for both these smaller parks in a relatively short time, winning a golden badge for their National Parks collections.

We passed the Navajo Headquarters and judicial/administration buildings, and my knowledgeable husband informed me that all the reservations which surround us, exist and act like Nations within our Nation (United States,) each of them making decisions and administering judgement and punishment for crime, etc.. independent of State or U.S. federal government. This, I find fascinating; I didn't know. I have, in the past, been, justifiably, accused of "living under a rock."

We landed at the North Rim and set up "camp" quickly (one small tent) in the late afternoon. The kids first sight of the Great Chasm in Arizona earth (right behind the tent - we camped on the EDGE) did make their mouths hang open. We then took a hike to the incredible lodge - comfortable like your living room, with a "bay window" stretching across the front the size of half a football field, for viewing of the canyon, and two wide outdoor giant stone porches, filled with Adirondack rockers, couches and tables. This a perfect place to relax and journal, and we certainly took advantage of all the space during our two days.

To prepare for our rigorous hike the next morning, we dined in the elegant dining room; colossal elk antler chandeliers hung above us and we pigged out on pasta and fries (for Sophia, the french fry queen.) We hiked out to the point, after dinner, and caught a stunningly colorful, and windy, sunset. We are constantly reminded of how small and connected the world is as we snapped photos for a family from Holland Michigan (where we lived for 17 years).

We hit the trail at 7:15, stocked with gallons of water, a plethora of snack bars, lunch, 6 walking sticks (Kevin purchased one of those smoothly polished ones and the rest of us had been collecting sticks with just the right "character." Dad helped by sawing off unwanted ends and knobs. We plan on having a family night, when we get home, to sand and spray, with shellac, our homemade trail canes), sunhats and high spirits. Elliott had the brilliant idea, at the beginning of the hike, to COUNT switchbacks on our way down into the canyon, so we could count them backwards, as we ascended. This proved to be encouraging to fellow hikers we encountered, who had begun their climb from the base camp at the river at 3:30 or 4:30a.m., and were now almost to the rim. To be able to say, "only 8 switchbacks to go" or you're getting close, only 12 switchbacks to the top" brought thankful relief and big smiles to friendly tired faces and joy to our kids, at the knowledge they'd offered encouragement. When we got down to about 20 switchbacks, we stopped announcing - as it didn't seem to have the same effect.

Elliott is an excellent "record keeper," and has enjoyed keeping close accounts of the mammals, reptiles, birds and amphibians we have sighted, out of state (or country) license plates spotted,(lists carefully change as WE enter a new state), and the price of gas each time we stopped - how many gallons were purchased and the date the purchase was made. These lists are all dutifully scripted in his computer-like handwriting. The "switchback counting proved to be a great motivational success for our family on the way back up (and several other families, who hadn't descended as far) until we got to NEGATIVE ONE - and negative two (two very long switchbacks.) We must have, in our exhaustion at the end of the day, lost count a bit - oops! But I'm getting somewhat ahead of myself.

I wanted to mention our encounter with the "Ranger," (that highly experienced specimen, respected for his skill and knowledge of trails, wildlife and general survival) at the bridge, on the way down. At 9:30 in the morning; we'd already enjoyed snacks at a beautiful spring, passed through a tunnel in the rock and were making great time. Many fellow travelers had turned back after the tunnel, but seeing the bridge down the canyon gave us a visual goal, which the kids nearly raced to, as we watched it grow bigger for about an hour. Upon seeing our children, Indiana Jones Ranger looked at his watch, squinted at the sun, and then asked the kids, "How far you going today?"

The childrens' exuberant response, "to the Roaring Falls," was met with a long thoughtful pause from Indi' Ranger. I watched his face as he took silent inventory of their ages and apparent physical fitness. He finally interviewed them about amounts of water they were carrying and proceeded to give us a severe safety speech, advising us to hang out at the roaring falls, once we arrived, throughout the afternoon, till about 3 or 4:00, before we began our climb, so we could just make it before nightfall. Even hiking in the dark would be better than attempting it in the heat of the day. He told us that "the bridge" is the "point of no return." To continue, we would be committed to a difficult trek. I know he was trying to scare us, and I remained somewhat entertained watching Kyria, whose face only became all the more 'set like flint' to the original goal. But part of me was thinking "am I a crazy person?".."Will Kevin and I be climbing out of the canyon at 11pm, each carrying a sleeping kid on our back?" It seemed that was the vision Indi' Ranger was seeing in his mind's eye.

Thanks Indiana,....we continued. We reached the Roaring Falls; they were lovely. We made it out of the ominous Grand Canyon by 3:30p.m.....that same afternoon. We were sweaty, exhausted and singing songs with as much breath as we could muster, just to keep up morale, and Elliott looked like an 80 year old man, all hunched over his walking stick.... but, we felt ACCOMPLISHED! We hung out for the rest of the day in the grand lodge on the cushy couches, journaling about our great perseverance.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Three Breathtaking Hikes





A plaque adorns the stone wall along the Virgin River which backs up to our campsite here at Zion; it's been placed in memory of Joe Bomers and reads:

"Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take,
But by the moments that take our breath away."

By this vacation, I feel my "life" grow and lengthen and stretch as I take in GOD's wonder through creation on a daily basis. Observing beauty and appreciating it, drinking deeply of it -has got to be one of life's most refreshing filler-uppers!

After surviving our harrowing drive and our Emery gas station rescue, we woke up at Ruby's Campground just down the road from Bryce Canyon National Park.

From "Sunrise Point" to "Sunset Point," via "Queen's Garden" to the "Navajo Loop" is toted as "the best hike in the world." I agree with this commentary; Bryce Canyon is unique beyond words. It's known for its bright orange sandstone "Hoodoos" - which fill about a mile's worth of canyon, like a forest of trees. Picture 2 and 3 story sized monoliths looking to have been created by Dr. Seuss, in various shapes, resembling, and named things, like "Queen Victoria on Her Throne" and "E.T." (the alien from the movie.) So, the hike down into a canyon of these above described Hoodoos (exotically named by early settlers fascinated, at the time, with discoveries in the Pacific Islands,) feels like a surreal stroll through a real life cartoon. They are truly awesome and beautiful. Mr. Bryce, who discovered the canyon and lived there as a "farmer" in the 1800s is quoted with the comical exclamation: "It's a H--- of a place to loose a cow!"

Having attempted this above described hike in the morning, and driven back to the camp by pouring rain, we took advantage of Ruby's amenities - an indoor pool at the lodge, with couches surrounding it, and free WiFi for non-swimming "watchers".

The kids played all morning with 4 children from Switzerland on holiday, while I chatted with their parents. It's fascinating for us to continually meet people from all over the world.

We found the Hoodoo hike even better later in the day as it cleared up and the sun set, adding more golden colors to the already dazzling sandstone "forest."

From Bryce, it was a relatively short but scenic drive to Zion. We are actually camping at a private campground with electricity, showers (yea!), a nice swimming pool and a friendly camp host named Jerry, who drives around in a golf cart souped up to look like a Cadillac. The girls have already hitched several rides in the rumble seat in back, to and from the camp store and bathrooms. Our site backs up to the Virgin River and we hear the rush of rapids all the time, very soothing. We don't have cell phone coverage out here but can use the Internet and have been able to skipe a few folks back home.

We will stay in Zion a week, taking an overnight trip down to Grand Canyon's North Rim with just our tent (girls will sleep in the car.)

But Zion is just down the road - so I'll tell you about the breathtaking hikes we've accomplished and enjoyed so far...

Monday our main hike took us about 5 miles on the Kayenta Trail, a loop taking us to three waterfalls and middle, upper and lower "Emerald Pools," where the water lays in shallow refreshing wading pools on the rock, a perfect spot for picnic. For a gal who has always loved to take her children on picnics out in nature, this trip fills me day after day, as Kevin portages our lunch of p,b&j, fruit and a myriad of other snacks, in his backpack. We dine, surrounded by vistas that could rival the best five star restaurants on earth - every day. These picnics are always an anticipated reward for our climb and Kevin's decline is always much lighter. We often share our food, or just our rock, with another thankful hiker; at the pools, we ate with a couple from Japan, drawn to the western U.S. by the husband's fascination with Native American spirituality. Part of the whole "experiencing GOD's exquisite creation" remains, for me, listening to and trying to understand, the unique souls and searchings of HIS pinnacle of creation - human beings.

On Tuesday we decided to tackle a hike we had heard warnings about all over park, on posters, on the recorded bus tour through the park, from the Rangers: "a strenuous climb which should NOT be attempted by anyone with heart problems, weak ankles, balance issues or the fear of heights...etc..." Listening to and reading this advice all of Monday, of course, only solidified in Kevin's (and the kid's) minds, that we had to hike to the precipice of "Angel's Landing," gaining an elevation of 1,488 feet in 2.5 miles - steep! 22 switchbacks in a stretch called "walter's wiggles" lead to a death defying peak climb, made possible only by metal chains installed in the rock, for clutching and pulling yourself up along narrow ledges and 3 foot wide outcroppings, with 1000(+) foot drop offs on either side. Before "Angel's Landing," I had not thought of myself as one who has a fear of heights; I now would. the first two thirds of the hike was gorgeous and tiring, though not treacherous. We loved all the hummingbirds flying in close to sip at the bright red Indian Paintbrush (a beautiful mountain flower), and the blue tailed lizards sunning on the rocks as we passed. At "Scout's Landing" many people eat lunch, enjoy the view (at 5,785 feet, overlooking most of the park) and go no further, (sometimes sending their braver family members to climb the peak while they enjoy a couple hours of rest and RELIEF. At this point of the hike - more signs and warnings, about continuing, shine like beacons of safety, wisdom and better judgement - but NO.. the Shoemaker feast would be eaten on the summit. I was outnumbered 5 to 1.

As we began the dizzying climb, we met Rob, and Indian American from Rhode Island, and his 11 year old son, Robbie, (Rob's wife and 9 year old son had opted not to take this particular hike.) After 10 minutes of climbing mom (me) nearly frozen with fear, broke out in a cold sweat and asked if our family could just stop and ask GOD for peace, and safety. Rob and Robbie joined us in prayer (though I didn't get the feeling they were necessarily Christians,) after which Rob confessed to us he was scared of heights but wanted to take on the climb for his son, fearless and determined. We stopped one other time to pray, and our new friends stuck with us to the top and all the way back down the mountain. We shared our lunches and great conversations and fellowship on top, right up next to the sun and heaven. The view WAS breathtaking, in more ways than one. I was really glad I'd done it, but not until the next day. Rob (the dad) thanked both Kevin and me for "letting them join us" and told us he didn't know if he would have made it without us. I kinda feel the same way - Love (for people) is stronger than fear.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Stormy Drive to Bryce Canyon

...A black cloud overhead, blanketing the sun and the sky for miles..... that's where I think I left off. Lightning strikes lit up in zig-zagging streaks surrounding us like electric ghosts of Native American Chiefs, warning:

"You dare to pass this way??!"

I fought back an eerie anxiety with prayers for peace and faith. Trust.... God, surely you wouldn't draw us out here for destruction. And at the same time the landscape was huge and forbodingly fearsome, it was beautiful - majestic, towering plateaus and mountains in the distance stood in deep purple ominous layers.... All this desert storm drama in the "middle-of-no-where - Utah" .... had I mentioned 300 miles without seeing any signs of civilization?? -

We were running dangerously low on gas. When we had left Arches Canyon National Park, our tank had shown an abundant almost 3/4 full -... and now it read "E," with not a substantial town on the map for 35 or 40 miles. "Oh GOD," we prayed, don't let us run out here, in this stormy barren place, where even on a clear day, no one might find us in our plight for days, maybe weeks (probably a slight exaggeration.) I could picture rickety old skeletons, gleaming in the desert sun beside dried planks of bleached wood and a strap of tattered canvas flapping in the wind, remnants of a covered wagon, whose trail ended in this very spot.

I found a dot on the map, looking to be 15 miles or so off the highway, but it had a name, Emery, and the map key showed it could have a population anywhere from zero to 2,500, ( we'd be lucky if it was 20) We thought possibly a rancher may have a pump for his tractors. So, we ventured off onto this smaller, more remote road, still surrounded by blackening storm clouds, pelting rain and flashes of lightning.

We chugged into Emery, Utah on fumes, to find 10 or 12 dwellings, and low and behold, a 2 pump gas station/store the size of my bedroom. Praise the LORD! This po-dunk establishment, which sold cheese sticks, potato chips and peach yogurt became also our diner - as the "village" hadn't one of these. We needed to get out of the heavy rain for a moment anyway, so we ate right in the little store with the teenage girl working at the register. Besides selling cigarettes and some booze, our gas station did carry a few T-shirts silk screened with a map of Utah and a thumbtack on Emery; It read "I ran out of gas in Emery, Utah." That kind of said it all.

Been there, done that - didn't buy the T-shirt.

We holed up for probably 25 minutes to wait out the storm, and as we stepped outside we were blessed with GOD's beautiful promise of protection and care - the clearest double rainbow stretching from east to west - as clear as if painted with "artist quality" watercolors. We stood and stared at it for a while -praising God. The storm was gone, and as we turned and drove out, we saw there was another rainbow to the south, thats three in all; vibrant color surrounded us now for about 7 minutes as we made our way back to the highway, and on to Bryce Canyon. Kevin and I set up in the dark, flopped all the kids into bed around 11 pm, thankful and tired.

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Wow - I've been meaning to journal for a hour... and on many other days as well, but just cannot peel my eyes away form the landscape - which continues to change. They change from flat, monotonous Kansas, (which we learned possesses very few gas stations with hundreds of miles of open road between), to Colorado's majestic Rockies looming up over the horizon and drawing us up, up, up steep grades, gaining thousands of feet in elevation, in the span of 20 minutes, through awesome, dramatic gorges carved out by the Colorado River some ancient "post flood" era. We have not yet reached the Grand Canyon, but have been preparing our minds to wrap around such a monstrous marvel.

We hiked in the Rocky Mtn. National Park near the head water lakes, which begin the Colorado and many rivers, pouring down with Niagara force from either side of the Continental Divide. Hikes took our breath away as we passed through gentle aspen groves and fragrant pine forests and rushing waterfalls. Then we climbed higher to explore sub -alpine and alpine (above the tree line), teaming with picas (The little beggars, trying only to stuff themselves with enough food to survive the harsh long winters, scramlbed right up the children's hands, looking for a free lunch.) and a variety of tenacious alpine flowers, like the Snow Buttercup, which will grow beneath 3 feet of frozen blanket in early spring, and then push it's optimistic bright yellow face right up through the snow. Atta go girl; gotta love the sun!

We observed two bull moose, tearing away at swampy shrubs, their HUGE antlers awing us from the great view atop a local's truck.

"climb up, get a better look," invited the back country granola type as he extended a friendly hand to all the kids and me.

People are beautiful, and appreciation God's creation with those on the trail, from all over the globe, brings a kind of unity and fellowship that warms my heart again and again. Elliott enjoys wearing his Detroit Tiger's caps and t-shirts because they give him something to chat and smile about with other guys on the trail who sport their rival team's logo. Sophia makes friends everywhere we go, breaking the ice for the other girls. It's not unusual to see her hiking along holding hands with some new little girl with whom she's just become acquainted. She's already written and sent postcards to people she's met on THIS vacation. Kyria, Annika and I have fun sketching and "painting" (with oil pastels) each other and landscapes we take in along the way.

We were also welcomed, upon arriving in Rocky Mountain National Park, by a herd of grazing Elk - stretched out across beaver meadows, some of them as close as 6 feet. Does, nursing calves, two big bucks with towering racks crowning their lovely faces (Ken and Deej - a hunter's dream). Later in the week some of the herd crossed right through the campground, ambling among the tents and campers like they own the place. Actually, they do! Whenever you spot wildlife, small crowds begin to gather and informative Rangers immediately appear on hand to promote safety and to educate all of us. This is a fantastic feature of the National Parks. It's great for the kids, as these kind professionals possess patient child friendly attitudes and exuberance for teaching about the natural world.

Our frantic run, to beat the oncoming rain, as we transferred all our food supplies, dishes, shampoos and other human smelling items (per strict advice of the ranger) from our sleeping quarters, our beloved pop-up camper, to the more secure hard sided vehicle - grandpa's van, were rewarded, as we were NOT attacked by hungry bears as we slept. Apparently black bears have frequented the park this summer, eating junk that humans have failed to safely lock away. We would, however, love to appreciate these cuddly monsters from a respectful distance....maybe when we get to Yellowstone.

Following Rocky Mtn. National Park, Rim Ridge Road at Colorado National Monument was another fabulous prelude to the Grand Canyon, as you can drive up and around and through the entire rim of several canyons also carved by the Colorado River. The drive narrows out at precarious points into hairpin curves and zigzag switchbacks, with stopping points all along the way, where you can hike back into see caves and monoliths. We observed the bright teal blue and yellow Collared Lizard as he sunned on the sand, and the kids crawled through erosion formed tunnels in the red rock and climbed to dizzying heights at "Devil's Kitchen," an enormous rock formation which we renamed "Eagle Rock" with Isaiah 40 as it's theme verse. Dad shouted our new name announcement from the canyon and echos bounced boldly back at us.

Meandering along - sort of "loosely" chronologically....

On our last evening in Colorado Nat. Monument, after asking GOD to help us spot the Big Horn Sheep, whose weighty horns and skull we had held to our own heads, (at a ranger program) marvelling at how this animal carries such a burden around on its brain, we took a sunset drive on rim ridge road in hopes of spying this elusive goat. The sunset was no "big shake" that evening, but emerging from a tunnel on the way back down, having lost almost all light - and there she was...a big horn Ewe, crossing the road right in front of us. Thanks God!

Leaving Colorado Nat., at a record time setting camp-tear-down -and-pack-up of 8:20 a.m., we drove to Arches National Park and took a couple blazing HOT trail hikes to natural stone arches, on the length of a football field (Landscape Arch.) It took much endurance in the heat of the day but we make it and were thankful for the shade of the twisted Juniper tree, an a picnic lunch. The juniper is a small shrubby pine well adapted to desert life it has a wide root system to sponge up any available water and purposely kill off sections of root and trunk to preserve itself during drought, causing the tree to twist and turn into all sorts of interesting shapes. Sophia gained the nickname "huckleberry Soph" at this picnic spot, for her perfect reclining perch on a Juniper's horizontal trunk and her straw hat shading her face.

Relaxing against the cool rock wall, I had to laugh right out loud watching Kevin as he helped Sophia fill out her "junior ranger booklet" with information they have gathered from their morning of hiking. I always tell people "Sophi! - that child could find mud in a desert!" And sure enough, a small stream from the pump, at which hiker's fill their water bottles, had pooled near Sophia's Juniper hammock and she wasted no time in "damming it up", to mix the water with the red dirt into a fine sculpting mud. Dad was allowing her to build the arches she had seen that day.

After filling out "junior ranger booklets" at each Natl. Park and attending Ranger programs, the children are quizzed on what they have learned and then are rewarded with a golden junior ranger badge, which they then sport on their hiking hats. They have collected 4 to date (Jefferson Expansion Memorial (St. Louis Arch), Rocky Mtn. Natnl. Park, Colorado Natnl. Monument) and will gain 8 or 9 more before we're home. - fun! They get stopped often by Rangers and tourists, who congratulate them and ask all sorts of questions. Cool program. They also get their "National Parks Passports" stamped at most ranger stations and trail heads, giving them quite a collection of reminders of the places they've been. They all journal daily as well, ...so... we plan to just call this school and not begin home classes until - say...October. Just kidding.

Yesterday - from Arches, we took our most harrowing and awe/fear inspiring road trips to date. We watched the landscapes change as we covered 300 miles of canyons, foothills, and plateaus in various shades of red, brown, grey, white and yellow - much of it extremely arid and desert like and BARREN. Occasionally we passed a vacant ghost town, once inhabited by maybe 5o people - long ago left to decay. After seeing no other signs of life for literally hours, 3 antelope graced us with their stately presence at the roadside, and this song floated through my mind: "Home, home on the range..(though apparently no one chose to make a home here)..where the deer and the antelope play...where seldom is heard a discouraging word.. (Hmmmm - no one to SPEAK or HEAR a word of any kind..) - And the skies are not cloudy all day..." Well, this last part was true for a few hours - then... A cloud rolled overhead - as thick as pea soup, and stretching across the horizon to the south and north with only a small bit of blue sky in between where we hoped to be heading. But....NO, the road turned right into the storm.

To be continued.. Soon, i hope.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010




Hello Ladies -






We've just dried off and thawed out from an afternoon hiking adventure to see Alberta Falls, in Rocky Mountain National Park. Having spent the first two hours of the morning horseback riding on the ridges, we got too late a start hiking the trail......It rains (storms) every afternoon here, so if you want to stay dry - hike in the morning. We were at about 10 thousand feet (still beneath the tree line, at the sub-alpine level), eating lunch beside a breathtaking waterfall when it began to hail, thunder and lightning. By the time we made it back down to the trailhead we were so wet, we might have been mistaken for colorful river otters....though not with quite as playful attitudes.






We are enjoying the view, the family time and the adventure - feeling more blessed than a human deserves. GOD is good!!