Grand Canyon

Up to this time on our "Sabbatical," we have been hiking an average of 6 miles every day for almost two weeks, building our strength and endurance up for our big goal-the Grand Canyon hike, which we knew would be the longest and most difficult. This challenge captured all four kid's minds and imaginations so that even when they were foot sore and weary, they would be encouraged by a reminder that we were "getting our hiking legs in shape" for the North Rim.

The atmosphere buzzed with excitement Wed. morning as we packed up just the tent and what little we would need for our rustic campsite in Grand Canyon National Park, leaving our pop-up at Zion for 2 days. On our 2 hour drive to the north rim, we took in both Cedar Breaks National Monument (a nice lunch break) and Pipe Springs National Monument (a natural spring in the middle of the desert, first used by the Piout Native Americans, then taken over in the early 1800s by Mormon settlers - the place has an interesting history and still bubbles out hundreds of gallons of water per minute.) Our kids finished the "ranger programs" for both these smaller parks in a relatively short time, winning a golden badge for their National Parks collections.

We passed the Navajo Headquarters and judicial/administration buildings, and my knowledgeable husband informed me that all the reservations which surround us, exist and act like Nations within our Nation (United States,) each of them making decisions and administering judgement and punishment for crime, etc.. independent of State or U.S. federal government. This, I find fascinating; I didn't know. I have, in the past, been, justifiably, accused of "living under a rock."

We landed at the North Rim and set up "camp" quickly (one small tent) in the late afternoon. The kids first sight of the Great Chasm in Arizona earth (right behind the tent - we camped on the EDGE) did make their mouths hang open. We then took a hike to the incredible lodge - comfortable like your living room, with a "bay window" stretching across the front the size of half a football field, for viewing of the canyon, and two wide outdoor giant stone porches, filled with Adirondack rockers, couches and tables. This a perfect place to relax and journal, and we certainly took advantage of all the space during our two days.

To prepare for our rigorous hike the next morning, we dined in the elegant dining room; colossal elk antler chandeliers hung above us and we pigged out on pasta and fries (for Sophia, the french fry queen.) We hiked out to the point, after dinner, and caught a stunningly colorful, and windy, sunset. We are constantly reminded of how small and connected the world is as we snapped photos for a family from Holland Michigan (where we lived for 17 years).

We hit the trail at 7:15, stocked with gallons of water, a plethora of snack bars, lunch, 6 walking sticks (Kevin purchased one of those smoothly polished ones and the rest of us had been collecting sticks with just the right "character." Dad helped by sawing off unwanted ends and knobs. We plan on having a family night, when we get home, to sand and spray, with shellac, our homemade trail canes), sunhats and high spirits. Elliott had the brilliant idea, at the beginning of the hike, to COUNT switchbacks on our way down into the canyon, so we could count them backwards, as we ascended. This proved to be encouraging to fellow hikers we encountered, who had begun their climb from the base camp at the river at 3:30 or 4:30a.m., and were now almost to the rim. To be able to say, "only 8 switchbacks to go" or you're getting close, only 12 switchbacks to the top" brought thankful relief and big smiles to friendly tired faces and joy to our kids, at the knowledge they'd offered encouragement. When we got down to about 20 switchbacks, we stopped announcing - as it didn't seem to have the same effect.

Elliott is an excellent "record keeper," and has enjoyed keeping close accounts of the mammals, reptiles, birds and amphibians we have sighted, out of state (or country) license plates spotted,(lists carefully change as WE enter a new state), and the price of gas each time we stopped - how many gallons were purchased and the date the purchase was made. These lists are all dutifully scripted in his computer-like handwriting. The "switchback counting proved to be a great motivational success for our family on the way back up (and several other families, who hadn't descended as far) until we got to NEGATIVE ONE - and negative two (two very long switchbacks.) We must have, in our exhaustion at the end of the day, lost count a bit - oops! But I'm getting somewhat ahead of myself.

I wanted to mention our encounter with the "Ranger," (that highly experienced specimen, respected for his skill and knowledge of trails, wildlife and general survival) at the bridge, on the way down. At 9:30 in the morning; we'd already enjoyed snacks at a beautiful spring, passed through a tunnel in the rock and were making great time. Many fellow travelers had turned back after the tunnel, but seeing the bridge down the canyon gave us a visual goal, which the kids nearly raced to, as we watched it grow bigger for about an hour. Upon seeing our children, Indiana Jones Ranger looked at his watch, squinted at the sun, and then asked the kids, "How far you going today?"

The childrens' exuberant response, "to the Roaring Falls," was met with a long thoughtful pause from Indi' Ranger. I watched his face as he took silent inventory of their ages and apparent physical fitness. He finally interviewed them about amounts of water they were carrying and proceeded to give us a severe safety speech, advising us to hang out at the roaring falls, once we arrived, throughout the afternoon, till about 3 or 4:00, before we began our climb, so we could just make it before nightfall. Even hiking in the dark would be better than attempting it in the heat of the day. He told us that "the bridge" is the "point of no return." To continue, we would be committed to a difficult trek. I know he was trying to scare us, and I remained somewhat entertained watching Kyria, whose face only became all the more 'set like flint' to the original goal. But part of me was thinking "am I a crazy person?".."Will Kevin and I be climbing out of the canyon at 11pm, each carrying a sleeping kid on our back?" It seemed that was the vision Indi' Ranger was seeing in his mind's eye.

Thanks Indiana,....we continued. We reached the Roaring Falls; they were lovely. We made it out of the ominous Grand Canyon by 3:30p.m.....that same afternoon. We were sweaty, exhausted and singing songs with as much breath as we could muster, just to keep up morale, and Elliott looked like an 80 year old man, all hunched over his walking stick.... but, we felt ACCOMPLISHED! We hung out for the rest of the day in the grand lodge on the cushy couches, journaling about our great perseverance.